Our chariot of freedom in Busan |
Wednesday, August 29, 2012
Vacation Wrap Up: Busan and the final days
Thursday, August 23, 2012
Vacation Wrap Up: Tongyeong, cable cars and the ocean
Once we arrived at the bus station it would be a ten minute taxi ride to our location destination, a cable car ride up to the mountains. We quickly found a taxi and were able to get a good view of the town on the way. One of the travelers I was traveling with was near fluent in Korean and upon our driver discovering that, decided to have a conversation with her. Naturally I couldn’t completely understand what she was talking about but I could tell from her smiles and tone of voice that she was enjoying the banter she was having, or at the very least, pretending to.
After their conversation was over, she told us the details. She told us how this taxi driver was a representative of a historical figure during Tongyeong’s festival in the fall. He also told a story of the boys who lived in the town and how they conspired to date girls from the big city.
“Boys who live in the country often try to date girls from the city. However, most girls from the city are vain and not interested in dating country boys. So what the boys do is have the girls they are interested in come down to Tonyeong and catch fish for them. They catch the fish, clean them and prepare them as a meal. The fish are so delicious and the girls are so impressed that they end up coming to the town and dating the country boys. So I think, if you want to get a city girl to like you, learn how to fish for her.”
The secrets of love, life and fishing all in a single cab ride.
As we approached the cable car station, the driver told us one last piece of advice before leaving.
“When you go up and down the mountain, be sure to sit on the left side of the car. You can get a good view of the mountains and when you come back it looks like you’re going into the sea. Also, be sure to make a wish once you make it up to the top of the mountain. Be sure it’s only one wish through. Anymore than one would leave the mountain god confused and unable to grant the one you wanted.”
Once we arrived at the cable car station we began our trip up the mountain. The car slowly crawled its way up the mountain. We shared a car with another family, a father, mother and teenage son. As we slowly climbed up the mountain and the trees and building began to become smaller, the car began to slowly rock from side to side. The father in front of us began to close his eyes and bury his head in the palm of his hands. I could hear him mumbling to himself as the mother rubbed his back for encouragement. As we were getting higher, the father was slowly beginning to lose his nerve. I however was enjoying the sights and the distant view of little buildings and cars nestled close to the coast. It was a view like a postcard, one that I tried to soak into my memories and burn into my brain.
Once we had reached the top, of the mountain we were greeted with a slew of people standing around, taking pictures and enjoying the view. There was an option to go even higher and have a better view of the ocean and surrounding mountains, the same spot where centuries ago famous Korean generals and strategists stood observing the sea battles taking place below them. We stood silent staring out at the ocean below. I had seen the ocean a total of two times during this trip and it still had not gotten old. Its vastness and relative calm made me feel comfortable. By being surrounded by the mountains and tress made everything seem at ease. That everything was right with the world and that standing here was a safe place, a place to reflect and marvel at the natural beauty all around you.
Soon it was time to leave. I made a silent wish before leaving for the downward cable car. I made it simple, but poignant. It was personal, but unselfish. It was the best wish I had made in years and it felt completely satisfying, even coming from someone who never really believed in wishes.
After leaving the cable car and heading back to the bus station to hit our next destination, we were lucky enough to have another talkative taxi driver on the way to the bus station. That was one thing I noticed about the taxi drivers and other people living near the coast. Everyone was very welcoming and easy to talk to. Even a foreigner with a limited grasp in Korea could still engage in a short, but friendly conversation. There was a sense of closeness and community that was rare in my town and completely nonexistent in the bigger cities.
The next bus ride took us to a small town not too far from Tonyeong. This small town was where our ferry ride awaited us. I had not yet ventured to a town smaller than my own, so seeing sights like a bus station the size of a small room and ferry station about the size of my apartment was novel and reminded me that no matter where you go, there is always somewhere smaller.
We did not need to wait long for our ferry to board. We had just enough time to grab a quick bite to eat, local seafood specialty before heading on the boat.
Not since being in Japan had I been able to ride on a boat in the middle of the ocean. The overcast sky reflected off of the dull water. Ships floated lazily out in the distance and besides the gentle hum of the motor, only the waves could be heard.
Our host on the ferry ride was a funny guy. His snarky and sarcastic humor went over well with the audience as he chided us for not being more interested in what we had to say and wondered why we sounded so unenthused.
“You picked the right boat today, but I picked the wrong audience,” he said.
The ferry ran close to rock formations, huge jagged rocks hutting out of the water, forming a small valley that could barely fit a single person. One other formations fisherman could be seen casting off, using only a small area for standing as they stood straight as a pole against the crashing waves determined to obtain their next catch.
Our ship came to a rest at a small island in the ocean, where we had an hour to explore and rest. We decided to simply sit out the exploring part and take a rest while we ate our meal and looked off at the ocean below us. The island was owned by a couple who had originally fled from North Korea and ended up building a area to explore and observe. It was a beautiful and almost eerily isolated place of peace and beauty so far from civilization.
As we looked off into the distance, I noticed a collection of small towns and buildings on individual islands. There were no roads, nor bridges. These people were living their own lives out away from the small town, away from the constantly in motion society of Korea. They had escaped the lifestyle that grips every Korean from birth until death and were living their lives and making a living on their own island, in their own world.
I thought about where we had traveled so far and how far we had come. Being so close to the coast had allowed me to see sights not common to someone living in the middle of mountains. It was so refreshing down here, the smell of sea air all around you, the freshness of food and the friendly demeanor of the people made traveling and transportation a pleasant adventure, more than a nuisance. Maybe the people living by the ocean would have thought the same way if they came to my town. Maybe they would have enjoyed the slightly busier atmosphere and mountains around them. Maybe they would have enjoyed the big city with all of its sights and sounds. Maybe they found this simple life too boring and predictable.
The thought amused me for a bit more before we had to make our way back to the ferry. Daylight was quickly slipping away and after a short discussion, decided that our best option was to go straight to Busan and spend the night there. Our time spent away from the big city was coming to an end, along with our vacation. We were on our way back to the rush of modern society, we were on our way back to our more familiar lives.
A wish is only a cable car away |
Monday, August 20, 2012
Vacation Wrap Day 4: Yeosu Jimjilbang
With my body feeling momentary defeat not being able to rest and my stomach's approaching victory of being full, I made my way downstairs to the tiny dining area with hopes of getting a quick bit and a beer before heading to bed.
I ordered my food and quickly took my seat. My ill attempt to use Korean to order quickly let the cashier know that I was not from around here. I was surprised to find out that after I told her that English was my native language, she was able to communicate back with me.
“My daughter also speaks English, she used to be good but she lost it.”
Her daughter was a girl with a thick glasses and a short bob haircut scrambling around the room talking to customers and clearing cups and bowels. When she spoke, her accent was strong, her dialect a distinct and sharp. When she spoke it was loud and quick, to someone not familiar with Korean her voice and tone sounded harsh and unwelcoming, to someone who understood barely enough Korean to get by, her voice and word choices were far from formal, but rather direct and to the point. Less of “Mother would you please make some bibimbap?” and more of “Hey mom! Can you make some bibimbap?”
I sat down at my table, staring absently at the late night comedy/variety show on the TV. The girl in the glasses came over and brought a bowel of bibimbap and a cold can of beer with it. Only a few months ago, I would have thought twice about having bibimbap this late, now it was a feast fit for a king.
I told the girl thank you, preparing to dig into my meal and eat it quickly enough so I could get to bed at a decent hour. As I began to stir the contents of the bowel and took a sip of beer, I noticed that the girl still remained behind.
“You speak English?” asked the girl curiously.
“I do. Hi, nice to meet you,” I said extending my hand for a handshake.
“Oh, that is good. Thank you. Enjoy your meal,” said the girl before quickly leaving.
I quickly gobbled down my meal. More concerned with going to bed on time rather than savoring a dish that I would surely have again some day in Korea. I finished my meal and quickly finished my beer before bringing up my dishes to the counter and heading towards the sleeping area.
As I was about to leave the eating area I heard the voice of the girl call out to me.
“Excuse me, um don't go yet wait.”
The girl quickly opened a refrigerator door and began mixing a liquid in a large glass.
Curious, I slowly walked back into the eating area and waited as she stirred the contents in the glass.
She handed me the glass, inside, an opaque liquid swirled around inside.
“This drink is for you, it is free, um, service. This drink very good. Very healthy,” she said with a smile on her face.
I thanked her and took a sip. I still wasn't sure what I was drinking, how it was made or where it came from but based on two factors: I was alive and it did not taste bad I continued to drink it and revel in this stranger's kind hospitality.
As I walked out for a second time, this time with mysterious drink in hand, the girl's mother called out to me, once again stopping me in my tracks.
“We are having dinner soon. Would you like to eat with us?” she asked.
My body was tired, my eyes were starting to feel heavy and my friends were probably already fast asleep. However, there was a little part o me that didn't want to go to bed yet.
Despite being tired and the hours available for sleep slowly ticking away, I felt that this was an opportunity I shouldn’t miss. At the time I couldn’t quite figure out why I was so compelled to stay and eat with them. Perhaps it was the sheer curiosity at the novelty and surprise of such a random moment in such an unusual hour for social activity.
The dinner conversation was short and scarce. Despite their knowledge and proficiency in English, it was only enough to communicate with the most basic of questions. When combined with my limited grasp of Korean, it made for limited dinner conversation. Still they were friendly and enjoyable to be around, a genuine sense of closeness and family was felt from these two in their body language and the way they talked to one another so casually without a second thought. They were a happy and content family. Considering how busy they were, this was a comforting thought.
I politely excused myself once the chicken was gone and the conversation grew stale. It was already two in the morning and my body was screaming at me to go to sleep. As I left the daughter said a cheerful goodbye of “Goodbye. Thanks for coming. See you later. I love you.”
My body gave into the fatigue once I laid on my mat. For being in the corner of a room filled with strangers on a hard wood floor, I never felt more eager to sleep and more peaceful. The vacation was going so well, it was an almost blissful relaxing, state of mind, a warm blanket that made the sleep even more restful.
The bliss of a restful sleep was suddenly and jarringly taken a way with a shrill scream of terror. The scream echoed off the walls and filled the room with such a loud and permeating sounds that I was certain that everyone heard it throughout the building. this wasn’t scream of a man who was startled, but the scream of a man who had just had a moment of sheer terror.
The entire room sprang awake, drowsy and disoriented on what had just happened. I immediately sprang awake, hands fumbling at the ground as I attempted to grab my glasses and see where the scream had come from. People began to walk around and talk to each other in worried voices. My friends were either groggily attempting to scan the room or too startled to fully comprehend what was happening. Once I had finally put my glasses on I saw people begin to fall back asleep or go back to their mats. We had all determined at this point it was an older man who must have had a nightmare and that the shock was over.
Still half asleep I put my head back to rest and slowly began to fall asleep. At the time I didn’t know that I had only a few hours left before having to wake up and move on to my next destination. My peaceful sleep was interrupted and try as I might, I wouldn’t be getting it back.
The next morning we looked back at the night before, trying to make sense of what had happened. We laughed about it, noting just how rare and absurd the situation was, noting that something like this would probably never happen again to us.
That was one of my most memorable nights in Korea. I will always remember the random family who welcomed me into their life for a few minutes nor will I ever forget the man who’s scream shook me to my very soul.
By the end of the day all I wanted was a damn shower and a damn bed. |
Sunday, August 12, 2012
Vacation Wrap Up Day 3 (Yeosu Expo)
I want one. With optional plasma cannon. |
Thursday, August 9, 2012
Vacation Update: Day 2
Yesterday morning I left my little house in Mokpo behind to heads towards Jindo island. Jindo was famous for both the Jindo Bridge and its breed of Jindo dogs. I was lucky enough to see both during the time I spent there.
With my traveling friends I was able to find a small museum holding old paintings and artifacts dating back thousands of years. The old man in charge of the museum was very friendly and through translated discussion with him, discovered that he used to work at Cal Tech back in the states.
His lecture was about the importance of learning English, how filling up your car in the morning can save gas and how bras contain harmful chemicals. A varied and offbeat offbeat concersation that resulted in a short tour looking at artwork and other crafts. We only stayed for a short time and the museum itself was not much larger than a backyard, but it was still worth it for quirkiness.
Later on in the afternoon we found Jindo Bridge and also nearby found the site of one of Korea's most legendary battlesites where navel creativity in the form or a turtle. It was here that we made the decision to throw away something from the past.
My guests had brought small bottles with pieces of paper within. The goal was to write something you could not let go of in life, and then cast it away in the ocean. I had been thinking what to get rid of the entire trip. Standing at the edge of the sea, I finally threw away thoughts and feelings following me for over a year. Not sure if it was a sure way to get over something, but I do know it was a step to figuring some things out in my life. A little piece left and I felt better.
We finally found a place to stay a few towns over. Since most of the hotels were sold out our only choice rested with a public bath or jimjilbang.
It was my first time staying at a publuc bath area and after an initial shock of getting naked and sleeping with strangers, I felt suprisingly comfortable. It was a weird sense of calm and trust sleeping and bathing with strangers. Despite sleeping on a hard wood floor, I felt rested and at ease, both mind and body.
I was at first hesitant on going back to work and ending my vacation. As night slowly crept over me I was beginning to feel ready to go back. My mind and conscious was getting rest and clarity that I needed.
It felt great.
Tuesday, August 7, 2012
Short Vacation Update 1: Mokpo
First day of vacation is over. Ended up at a little pension house area near Mokpo. Mokpo is known for its fishing based economy and that is more than apparant with the various seafood restaurants and ship yards scattered all over.
The place I stayed at was a nice little beach house overlooking the East China Sea. I was lucky enough to go out on the rocks and stare off into the sea. It began to rain while sitting on the rocks and the aftermath left half of the sky a orange and dark glow while the rest of the sky was pitch black with only the bright harbor lights as its backdrop. It was a an amazing contrast of light and dark, peace and fury.
That night I slept well with the sounds of the waves crashing below.
For the first time in a long tine I dreamed and actually remembered my dreams.
In it the person that I loves followed me around the world. The entire time I was so afraid of loosing her that I always was trying to keep her in my sight. She finally left me in an old high school building. I knew I would never see her again.
She was gone but I did not feel sad.
Today I will make my way to Jindo Island. Hoping more adventures and mental revelations come my way.
Monday, August 6, 2012
This time tomorrow, where will I be?
It feels odd not having to go to work on a dear daily basis. As much as I enjoy waking up whenever I want and doing whatever I want during my break without worry of being on time, I kind of miss the routine and the structured schedule of showing up to work everyday and having a task set in front of me. It seems like forever since I last taught and even longer since I last set foot in my school.
The next few days will be spent backpacking and traveling around Korea. I'm looking forward to the opportunity to see Korea in a light that many people often don't get to see.
It will also be a welcome opportunity to rest my weary mind from all the thoughts that have been wracking my brain for the past few days. Lot's of events have been happening in my personal life, many of them requiring serious commitment or thought. Hopefully the next few days will present some moments of clarity and allow me to get my head back on straight again.
The lack of work combined with these thoughts of futures and relationships makes my brain scramble and feel like a slushy mess of inactivity and intense thoughts. It's easy to fall into this trap because its easy. It requires little effort and most of all, requires you to simply veg out and stagnant while your brain slowly fades away into oblivion.
While its till undetermined whether I will have the chance to write and update on my trip its almost certain that I will have something to say upon my return and the beginning of the second semester of my school. There were still some other events that didn't get the chance to mention including:
My first K pop Concert (2NE1)
A birthday weekend in Daegu
The outcome of a very important decision
Working for publications in Korea
Gagnam Style!
Don't let me forget about these when I come back, I have to keep up to date so don't let me forget.
That goes for everyone, even YOU.
A club in Daegu. Who is Bob? Why does he have a club? The mind boggles... |