Monday, May 14, 2012

Chapter 10: Small town living, big life lesson


I have always been drawn to the big cities. The bustling metropolises and the frantic city life was an exciting invitation to someone who spent a good portion of his life in the suburbs, reading about the concrete jungles from socialites who roamed the city like some predator traversing the jungle with ease. I had decided at an early age that the city life was for me, I liked the chaos. I liked the nonstop nature. I was going to live there one day. It was only a matter of time.

This love affair continued, as I grew older. I was lucky enough to spend two summers in Tokyo, Japan, one of the largest and busiest metropolises in the world. It was a city that never stopped moving and always had something to do. Tokyo solidified my love of the big city. I was convinced that I was going to live here for a very long time.

Events occurred and eventually the option of Tokyo was no longer a viable one. Like a love that was never meant to be, Tokyo was a city that I loved dearly, but knew in my heart at the time, was something that would just not work out.

I turned my sights to Korea, once again aiming to work in a big city, and immerse myself in the bustle and breakneck speed of daily city life. Again, it was not meant to be as, my location chosen for me was not the sprawling city that I had envisioned, but rather the town nestled in the center of Korea. A town called Gimcheon.

Gimcheon at one point had actually been the second largest city in the Gyeongbuk province of Korea. Eventually however, its industry and economy slowed down and the once bustling metropolis became a slow paced shell of its former self.

My initial reaction was one of slight disappointment. Despite being one of the largest districts in Korea, a majority of it was farm land. The actual city portion could be walked within an hour. It was a city in name only; to me it was a town, a town just like the one I grew up in my entire life. It seemed that no matter where 
I went, the small town life was set to follow me.

Many weekends were spent outside of Gimcheon. I used the weekend opportunity to travel to the bigger cities around Korea as often as possible, not a difficult feat due to Korea’s excellent transportation system that could you get you from one side of the country to the other in a matter of minutes. Sprawling cities like Seoul, Incheon and Daegu were my homes away from home on the weekend. Sundays were always looked at with slight apprehension, the adventure of the city would have to wait until next weekend, and my small town needed me back again.

The past weekend was out of character for me. I had spent a majority of my weekends trying to get away from Gimcheon and explore but this weekend I had felt compelled to stay. Perhaps it was my mind telling me to take a break from exploring. Perhaps it was a need to become more accustomed with my own area of residence. Nevertheless I didn’t purchase tickets out of town like normal. I didn’t pack for the weekend Thursday night. I simply went home on Friday and stayed in.

I awoke Saturday morning feeling refreshed and optimistic. Saturday mornings were usually met with a few seconds of apprehension as traveling and working the night before would usually leave me exhausted. This was one of the first times I had slept in my own bed on a weekend. It felt good, it felt comfortable, it felt uncharacteristically inviting compared to the hard floors and stiff mattresses of hotels and jimjobangs I had become accustomed to.

That afternoon I received a call from some other foreign teachers in Gimcheon. They were planning on spending a night out in Gimcheon and I was invited along. These were people that I knew fairly well, but not as well as other people I traveled to visit. They were acquaintances in my town that I enjoyed being around, but never spent more than a few hours with.

I met up with the group of friends and after a nice dinner, we ended up walking around the middle of downtown. The sidewalks were filled with people and couples happily going about their business. The small shops were lit with bright lights and loud music. School children, free from the burden of school and studying ran in the street, some of them with ice cream in hands all of them laughing and seemingly happy to be free of the pressures of school if only for a day. As I continued to walk and observe the other people a sense of comfort and content begin to come over me. I was walking with good company, on a warm and breezy Saturday night. The sky was clear; the streets were brightly lit and bustling. It was an idyllic evening in my town of Gimcheon. Never before has a town looked more peaceful and happy. Never before did I feel more at home while being so far away.

I still love the big city. I love the busy lifestyle. I doubt that I will ever fall out of love with it. However, that night time stroll in my little town made me fall in love with a different kind of living, a life less frantic, but one more comfortable. Life doesn’t always need to move fast, and this is the town that told me that. 

Tuesday, May 1, 2012

Chapter 9: Getting sick for the first time in Korea and the feelings that come with it


No one ever has fun getting sick. It’s a small period of vulnerability that leaves us feeling physically at our worst and looking for any form of relief or comfort to feel better. It’s easy to forget just how comfortable some chicken soup or some nice warm tea can make us feel when they are not longer available.

My first experience getting sick in Korea came quickly and out of the blue. I had been pushing my body to the limit since settling down in Korea, not wanting to waste a single moment during the weekend and staying out to the crack of dawn to see everything that there was to see. It was really no surprise that my body would eventually concede defeat and yield to the advances of sickness.

I awoke one morning feeling a little stuffier than normal, my throat dry and my eyes itchy. I shrugged it off to allergies and decided that drinking some water and staying away from pollen would be the cure for my most recent woes. As the day progressed and the symptoms begin to worsen, I noticed that what I had was more than allergies. Soon I was having difficulty breathing, my nose was completely blocked and my throat felt like I had just swallowed the contents of an ash tray.

Luckily, that day was a day that was devoted to all-day version of study hall, due to the approaching deadline of exams the following weeks. I was fortunate enough to be allowed to go to the drug store and purchase some temporary medicine. Unfortunately, the drug store was more than 15 minutes away from my school, and without a means of transportation and a lack of taxies coming my way, walking was the only option.

The hot sun beat down on me as I made my way to the store. I was used to feeling sick in the winter, battling a runny nose and a sore throat with the freezing cold as a companion. It seemed odd that weather that I normally associated with warmth, health and vitality was making me feel worse as I slowly made my way to the store. Everything seems to take longer, seem farther when feeling sick. My watch told me that I had only taken 14 minutes to reach the store. My body told me that I had been walking for days.
When I entered the shop, I handed the pharmacist a piece of paper with a translated request for over the counter medicine. With my little knowledge of Korean and my quickly disappearing voice, trying to speak would only bring about more complications and take more time, something that I did not want to deal with. Being sick means being angry, it means being impatient. Being sick means wanting everything right now and needing relief because your body demands it and as far as you’re concerned, the world needs to stop because you’re sick damnit.

However, the world does not stop, no one cares and you are left to fend for yourself. This was never more apparent than feeling like death and not being able to translate or articulate your symptoms to a doctor. If I was going to become any better, or at the very least not feel like a lifeless, diseased lump of flesh I was going to have to take things in my own hands.

I accepted the medicine and started the long journey back to my school. Once I made it back it was now noticeable that I was very sick and before I would even say anything, my vice principal kindly sent me home to recover, a very kind gesture and one that I have come to appreciate in a world where kind gestures can be scarce.

I once again made another trek back towards my home, my pace greatly slowed and my breathing labored. I remember telling myself that I was getting closer. I told myself that my apartment was only a few more steps and promised myself my comfortable mattress and soft pillow as a reward for making the journey back.

I made it back to my apartment and immediately collapsed on my bed. Exhaustion quickly won as I feel asleep for several hours before waking again. I sat up on my mattress, still feeling horrible and covered in a cold sweat.

There was no mother to care for me, no roommate to run to the store and bring you back some soup. There was only myself, my sickness and the quiet empty apartment.
In a country thousands of miles from home, I was on my own. The job, the food, the living situation never made me realize how much I needed to rely on myself and the responsibility of maintain your health, or rather how important your health was especially with a job responsibility. I would regularly blow off classes to stay home sick, but I could no longer do that. Getting sick was my responsibility in my body and even if it wasn’t my fault, it was my burden to deal with, no one else’s.

It seems that at moments of venerability we quickly realize the extent of our situations and how we will solve them. Its these moments where we grow the most and our true characters emerge.  

note: After nearly a week of dealing with illness, I am now feeling much better. Still not completely well, but significantly better everyday.