Vacation Wrap Up: Busan and the final days

Coming to Busan was a shock to see and initially a very overwhelming experience. Spending the last few days in the peaceful countryside where the only noise would be the chirping of cicadas or the distant hum of a car was quickly contrasted by the blaring K Pop, nonstop traffic and constant crowds of people hurrying back and forth. It truly felt we had entered another world, or another time and era all together. Living in the past had truly made for a brightly colored and loud future.

One of my friends had been lucky enough to sit next to a friendly resident of Busan who attended Busan University during our bus ride. She had told my friend all about the different spots to see and visit in Busan and the best places to stay for the night. With that knowledge we hopped into a taxi with a destination in mind: a jimjilbang named Homers, supposedly one of the fanciest jimjilbangs in Busan.

The taxi ride was a long one, taking well over ten minutes to arrive at our destination. Traffic and tall buildings bathed in neon light was a constant reminder that we were back in the big city, back to civilization. We were still recovering from the shock of being back. I used to enjoy living in the city and being part of the hustle, it made everything feel dynamic and alive. Everything was always moving. Everything was always exciting.

My love of the city was subsided during my trip. I had gotten used to the peace and quiet; I was beginning to appreciate how much time and space I had in the rural areas. The air was cleaner, the people nicer and the food tastier. Our cab driver was mostly silent on the way to the jimjilbang, only occasionally confirming our destination. I was officially missing the smaller places; I even missed the talkative cabbies.

We arrived at Homers and were greeted with a large building in front of us. The inside lobby was a posh collection of immaculate polished floors, shiny glass chandeliers and smooth brass railings. Dressed in only a sweaty t shirt and carrying only a backpack, this place was much too fancy for my vagabond looking self.

Homers was two parts, one a jimjilbang and the other a hotel. Both were connected and both could allow different people to go back and forth as they choose to. The jimjilbang was on the higher floors and despite being slightly less fancy, it was still the most impressive jimjilbang that I had been to yet. The highlight was a huge window that allowed a view of Busan’s famous bridge from the jimjilbang hot tub or the sleeping area. It was only a few feet away from one of the smaller beaches in Busan, with a view that allowed you to see the dark waves crashing up on the shore and the brightly lit stands selling food and random trinkets to shine brightly below.

Being that this was towards the end of our trip, the fatigue of traveling around was beginning to catch up to all of us.  Despite the novelty of the place we were in, sleep was a main objective. As much as I wanted to sleep, my body was still too active, still too excited to go to sleep just yet. Thankfully my friend sitting next to me was not quite ready for bed either (or was and I ended up keeping her up) and the next few hours were spent talking and taking in the view in front of us. It was funny to think that at the time, our journey started in a bus station with the mountains in the background and was now ending with a bridge and the ocean. It was a comforting and triumphant thought as the room grew dimmer and my eyes grew heavier.

I was immediately awoken by a sound intimately familiar with. I bolted up to the sound of the entire room’s scream, once again awkwardly looking around trying to get over my initial shock and disbelief that something like this could happen to me again.

My blurry eyes made out a large group of people glued to the TV in front of them. By the time I had put my glasses on and rubbed the sleep out of my eyes, I was finally able to piece together the chaos as the room once again let out a unified scream that shook the room.

The soccer game between Korea and Japan was on TV, the game that was one of the biggest games for any Korean with even a passive interest in sports. It was nation versus nation, pride versus pride and even at three in the morning, these fans were going to show their support.

With the outburst of noise, sleep was no longer a viable option. I moved around the room watching the people and the game, not really angry or tired but more amused and interested in a game that had now managed to capture the attention of the entire formally sleeping room.

By the time the sun began to peak over the ocean and rise between the columns of the bridge, casting its lights and shadows on the sand below, the noise and excitement had just reached its peak. Korea had just won the game, the crowd had gone wild, and the yelling and the screaming was slowly beginning to die down. After the last few people had finally left the TV, quiet had swept over the room again and the quietness was finally back, inviting for someone who had only previously slept a few hours before, just enough time for an hour of sleep before having to wake up again.

The reason we awoke so early was to meet another friend meeting up with us. Not only would we be traveling around Busan with him, we would be traveling around in a car that he had rented and he would be driving. I had ridden in cars around Korea before, but never with close friends and never for the purpose of just driving around.

The sun was shining brightly as my friend signed the release papers and we cautiously got into our small fuel- efficient car for the first time. We would be driving in one of the biggest cities in Korea with some of the more aggressive drivers in Korea. My friend said a prayer for us before we left. We all laughed it off as a joke, but I secretly suspected that she was not.

The worry and fear of driving was quickly replaced with an incredible sense of freedom and excitement. We were riding in our own car in Korea. We didn’t have to rely on the subway or the bus. We were free to go where we wanted to, listen to our own music and leave when we felt like it. The freedom and giddiness was infectious and soon everyone in the car was laughing and talking on where to go and what to do.

I never thought you could encapsulate the feeling of driving for the first time but this was a moment that was perfectly replicated for me. We were young, we could go where we wanted to, and we had no worries.

We spent the day driving to random places in Busan, occasionally taking a look at a map to get a solid idea of what areas to visit. We ended up going to two large malls, one of which was supposedly one of the largest in the world, a driving range bowling and finally finishing with a steak dinner. Relatively normal and characteristic of big city living but I didn’t care. We went to these places with good people, drove there with our own will and did next to no planning.

The trip had come to an end and as I boarded my train to go back home and prepare for my return back to the work force, my mind was completely at peace. No reflection, no worries and no planning ahead. Just silence and serenity existed where only a few weeks before worry and stress.

There was nothing left to think about. I now had everything I wanted, everything I needed. 

Our chariot of freedom in Busan

Vacation Wrap Day 4: Yeosu Jimjilbang

After spending an entire day at Yeosu Expo, coming back to a hot bath and clean pajamas sounded like a welcome change from aching feet and humidity stained clothing. After our miraculous taxi find, we were able to promptly check into the same jimjilbang from the night before. Since we arrived early, beating the crowd still waiting at the expo bus stops we found a cozy and quiet little corner to rest. While the rest of my traveling companions went to take showers and each of us took turns watching our spot, hunger began to take over until it was clear that it would take priority over sleep.

With my body feeling momentary defeat not being able to rest and my stomach's approaching victory of being full, I made my way downstairs to the tiny dining area with hopes of getting a quick bit and a beer before heading to bed.

I ordered my food and quickly took my seat. My ill attempt to use Korean to order quickly let the cashier know that I was not from around here. I was surprised to find out that after I told her that English was my native language, she was able to communicate back with me.

“My daughter also speaks English, she used to be good but she lost it.”

Her daughter was a girl with a thick glasses and a short bob haircut scrambling around the room talking to customers and clearing cups and bowels. When she spoke, her accent was strong, her dialect a distinct and sharp. When she spoke it was loud and quick, to someone not familiar with Korean her voice and tone sounded harsh and unwelcoming, to someone who understood barely enough Korean to get by, her voice and word choices were far from formal, but rather direct and to the point. Less of “Mother would you please make some bibimbap?” and more of “Hey mom! Can you make some bibimbap?”

I sat down at my table, staring absently at the late night comedy/variety show on the TV. The girl in the glasses came over and brought a bowel of bibimbap and a cold can of beer with it. Only a few months ago, I would have thought twice about having bibimbap this late, now it was a feast fit for a king.

I told the girl thank you, preparing to dig into my meal and eat it quickly enough so I could get to bed at a decent hour. As I began to stir the contents of the bowel and took a sip of beer, I noticed that the girl still remained behind.

“You speak English?” asked the girl curiously.

“I do. Hi, nice to meet you,” I said extending my hand for a handshake.

“Oh, that is good. Thank you. Enjoy your meal,” said the girl before quickly leaving.

I quickly gobbled down my meal. More concerned with going to bed on time rather than savoring a dish that I would surely have again some day in Korea. I finished my meal and quickly finished my beer before bringing up my dishes to the counter and heading towards the sleeping area.

As I was about to leave the eating area I heard the voice of the girl call out to me.

“Excuse me, um don't go yet wait.”

The girl quickly opened a refrigerator door and began mixing a liquid in a large glass.

Curious, I slowly walked back into the eating area and waited as she stirred the contents in the glass.

She handed me the glass, inside, an opaque liquid swirled around inside.

“This drink is for you, it is free, um, service. This drink very good. Very healthy,” she said with a smile on her face.

I thanked her and took a sip. I still wasn't sure what I was drinking, how it was made or where it came from but based on two factors: I was alive and it did not taste bad I continued to drink it and revel in this stranger's kind hospitality.

As I walked out for a second time, this time with mysterious drink in hand, the girl's mother called out to me, once again stopping me in my tracks.

“We are having dinner soon. Would you like to eat with us?” she asked.

My body was tired, my eyes were starting to feel heavy and my friends were probably already fast asleep. However, there was a little part o me that didn't want to go to bed yet.

Despite being tired and the hours available for sleep slowly ticking away, I felt that this was an opportunity I shouldn’t miss. At the time I couldn’t quite figure out why I was so compelled to stay and eat with them. Perhaps it was the sheer curiosity at the novelty and surprise of such a random moment in such an unusual hour for social activity.

The dinner conversation was short and scarce. Despite their knowledge and proficiency in English, it was only enough to communicate with the most basic of questions. When combined with my limited grasp of Korean, it made for limited dinner conversation. Still they were friendly and enjoyable to be around, a genuine sense of closeness and family was felt from these two in their body language and the way they talked to one another so casually without a second thought. They were a happy and content family. Considering how busy they were, this was a comforting thought.

I politely excused myself once the chicken was gone and the conversation grew stale. It was already two in the morning and my body was screaming at me to go to sleep. As I left the daughter said a cheerful goodbye of “Goodbye. Thanks for coming. See you later. I love you.”

My body gave into the fatigue once I laid on my mat. For being in the corner of a room filled with strangers on a hard wood floor, I never felt more eager to sleep and more peaceful. The vacation was going so well, it was an almost blissful relaxing, state of mind, a warm blanket that made the sleep even more restful.

The bliss of a restful sleep was suddenly and jarringly taken a way with a shrill scream of terror. The scream echoed off the walls and filled the room with such a loud and permeating sounds that I was certain that everyone heard it throughout the building. this wasn’t scream of a man who was startled, but the scream of a man who had just had a moment of sheer terror.

The entire room sprang awake, drowsy and disoriented on what had just happened. I immediately sprang awake, hands fumbling at the ground as I attempted to grab my glasses and see where the scream had come from. People began to walk around and talk to each other in worried voices. My friends were either groggily attempting to scan the room or too startled to fully comprehend what was happening. Once I had finally put my glasses on I saw people begin to fall back asleep or go back to their mats. We had all determined at this point it was an older man who must have had a nightmare and that the shock was over.

Still half asleep I put my head back to rest and slowly began to fall asleep. At the time I didn’t know that I had only a few hours left before having to wake up and move on to my next destination. My peaceful sleep was interrupted and try as I might, I wouldn’t be getting it back.

The next morning we looked back at the night before, trying to make sense of what had happened. We laughed about it, noting just how rare and absurd the situation was, noting that something like this would probably never happen again to us.

That was one of my most memorable nights in Korea. I will always remember the random family who welcomed me into their life for a few minutes nor will I ever forget the man who’s scream shook me to my very soul.

By the end of the day all I wanted was a damn shower and a damn bed. 

Vacation Wrap Up Day 3 (Yeosu Expo)

The remaining days of my Korean backpacking adventure were spent doing things I have never done before, seeing things I have never seen and walking away with experiences that will most likely remain in mind for a long time. It was a true fish out of water experience, but one that always felt rewarding and well worth the effort to find and discover new things.

After spending the night in Jindo at my first jimjilbang, I headed out with my traveling companions to attend the Yeosu Expo.

The Yeosu Expo was an event that involved different countries around the world meeting in one place to share their latest developments and breakthroughs in ocean conservation and protection. Along with the many education exhibits were different bands, a k pop concert, fireworks show and different variety all through the venue. It was like a mini environmentally friendly theme park to spend the day in and explore.

I had heard many things about the expo, most of them along the lines on what a unique and rare experience it was for Korea to be hosting this event. I heard people say that eager visitors came as far away as Italy and Germany and was willing to pay top dollar just to get in.

We only ended up paying ten thousand won for admission.

Apparently there was a foreigner price where we ended up paying much less than a normal Korean attendee. It completely caught us by surprise and set the tone for the pleasant day we would have. Sometimes it was good to be a foreigner; this was one of those cases.

The entire expo was one spectacle after another. Each country had their own exhibit featuring their own breakthroughs in protecting the ocean along with a unique presentation to go along with it. For the US, it was a large curved screen featuring greetings from Hillary Clinton and Barrack Obama. The German exhibit featured an interactive beach complete with fake sand and interactive exhibits. My favorite exhibit was the Korean one, where guests were treated to a cultural presentation complete with traditional dance and a 360 degree dome movie theater where a short film detailing the history of Korea and the sea was shown. The amount of immersion and full sensory interaction was magnificent.

The rest of the expo had different entertainment events over the course of the day. One was a giant wooden puppet that walked along the road along with an ocean themed parade.  Another was a water show complete with jet skis, a water jetpack and a princess in peril. My favorite was a robotics presentation with the latest in what Korea was producing in regards to robots.  Since I was a child, robots always held my interest and seeing a large line up of them in person was a treat.

The highlights were easily the ocean construction robots. While most of them were designed to resemble sea creatures such as eels and crabs, one looked more like a giant mecha from the old anime in the 80’s designed to help build and support structures. 

I want one. With optional plasma cannon. 

My childhood dreams were happening right in front of me, a huge robot that was only a few years from reality looking like something from the shows I watched as a kid. I was grinning the entire time. Sometimes dreams do come true.

The show ended with a presentation at the “Big O”, a large circular object that used lights, pyrotechnics and water to create images. The results were spectacular and surprisingly clear for using nothing but water as its display surface.  It was a very appropriate end to a great day of information and spectacle.

After the expo was over, we ran into another adventure in itself, leaving the expo in one piece. It was to be expected that most people were to be leaving but what I witnessed and managed to make my way through was one of the most chaotic scenes I have ever witnessed in Korea.

Line stretched around the block with people waiting for taxis. This would not be a problem if there were a line of taxis waiting to leave like at bus or train stations. However, taxis would show up in intervals of around every five minutes and only one taxi at a time.  Suddenly the bus didn’t seem like a bad option.

Heading to the bus was an even greater task with obstacles of crowds of people, police and cars in the way. Once we made our way to the bus stop, we were greeted to an even longer line of people waiting for a bus that had strangely not shown up yet. Not wanting to wait for what would possibly be hours, we decided to walk further away from the expo in hopes of finding a taxi further away.

The walk would require us to make a long trek up a steep hill crowded with cars and busses trying to leave the expo and people who had the same idea we did moving further away.  It looked like something out of a disaster movie. Crowds of people moving away, cars stuck in a standstill collisions between vehicles and angry Koreans yelling at each other in angry Korean. If I wasn’t so tired and drenched in sweat, it would have a very amusing scene.

After hiking up the hill one of the group managed to spot a taxi on the other side of the road, after speaking to him in Korean, he not only stopped to pick us up, but he also came over to the other side even in the densely packed road. I was never so happy to see a taxi in my life. Taxi God if you are reading this I want to take the opportunity to say thank you.

We made our way back to the jimjilbang where visions of sleep and a hot shower awaited us. I was ready to call it a night, but at the time little did I know, that my night was just starting to get interesting and a full night’s sleep would simply be out of the question. 

Vacation Update: Day 2

Yesterday morning I left my little house in Mokpo behind to heads towards Jindo island. Jindo was famous for both the Jindo Bridge and its breed of Jindo dogs. I was lucky enough to see both during the time I spent there.

With my traveling friends I was able to find a small museum holding old paintings and artifacts dating back thousands of years. The old man in charge of the museum was very friendly and through translated discussion with him, discovered that he used to work at Cal Tech back in the states.

His lecture was about the importance of learning English, how filling up your car in the morning can save gas and how bras contain harmful chemicals. A varied and offbeat offbeat concersation that resulted in a short tour looking at artwork and other crafts. We only stayed for a short time and the museum itself was not much larger than a backyard, but it was still worth it for quirkiness.

Later on in the afternoon we found Jindo Bridge and also nearby found the site of one of Korea's most legendary battlesites where navel creativity in the form or a turtle. It was here that we made the decision to throw away something from the past.

My guests had brought small bottles with pieces of paper within. The goal was to write something you could not let go of in life, and then cast it away in the ocean. I had been thinking what to get rid of the entire trip. Standing at the edge of the sea, I finally threw away thoughts and feelings following me for over a year. Not sure if it was a sure way to get over something, but I do know it was a step to figuring some things out in my life. A little piece left and I felt better.

We finally found a place to stay a few towns over. Since most of the hotels were sold out our only choice rested with a public bath or jimjilbang.

It was my first time staying at a publuc bath area and after an initial shock of getting naked and sleeping with strangers, I felt suprisingly comfortable. It was a weird sense of calm and trust sleeping and bathing with strangers. Despite sleeping on a hard wood floor, I felt rested and at ease, both mind and body.

I was at first hesitant on going back to work and ending my vacation. As night slowly crept over me I was beginning to feel ready to go back. My mind and conscious was getting rest and clarity that I needed.

It felt great.